Why we only serve paya on Saturdays
Customers ask, sometimes a little angry: **"Why can't I get paya on a Tuesday?"**
The answer is simple. Paya done well takes 20 hours of stove time. We start at 4 AM Friday and serve at 11 AM Saturday. We don't have the kitchen capacity to do this every day, and we don't believe in shortcuts.
What slow paya actually means
The bones go in cold water with onion, ginger, garlic, and our garam masala blend. It comes to a slow simmer over about three hours. Then it sits, very low heat, for fourteen more hours. The collagen breaks down. The marrow dissolves into the broth. The fat surfaces, gets skimmed, and goes back in tempered.
If you boil it hard, the broth turns cloudy and the marrow seizes. If you cook it too short, the bones still feel like bones. Twenty hours is the boundary between "paya stew" and "paya".
Why not Sunday too?
We tried. The kitchen is exhausted by Saturday afternoon. Sunday is family day for our staff. Paya stays a Saturday-morning ritual. Order it before noon — by 1 PM, it's gone every week.
Written by
Chef Mohammed Iqbal
Head Chef at Karachi Tandoor House